Realistic simulation of instantaneous nearshore water levels during extreme conditions : Characterization of contributions at different scales of time and space ; Modélisation du niveau instantané de la mer en conditions paroxysmales : Caractérisation des contributions à différentes échelles de temps et d’espace

Tropical storms are the main engine of extreme water levels due to strong winds, abundant rainfalls and strong waves attached to these events. The western North Pacific ocean is one of places where these tropical storms (called typhoon in this area) are the most violent in the world exceeding 95 knots of wind speed (175 km/h). The island of Taiwan is located on the most of typhoons tracks which come from the western North Pacific. Every year, three or four typhoons strike Taiwan directly and around twenty pass near it. The quantification of instantaneous water levels variations is still studied by active researches. The identification of physical processes that can become dominant on water level during extreme conditions is crucial for the management and the protection of coastal areas.These PhD works, based on a numerical approach, allow to discuss the fondamental regional hydrodynamic mechanisms which control the sea surface elevation along the sandy barrier of Wan-Tzu-Liao located south-western Taiwan.We used the 3D circulation model SYMPHONIE and the wave model WAVEWATCH III to study the mousson season 2011 and the typhoon season 2012 on an area extending 600 km off Taiwan island. These simulations deal with most of the oceanographical forcings playing a role in the sea surface elevation at the coast : winds, air/sea fluxes, astronomical tides, regional circulation, rivers and waves. The coupling between waves and currents is fully in 3D and the two models share the same computational grid. Moreover, in the framework of the KUNSHEN project, a raft of devices were set in front of the Wan-Tzu Liao barrier from october 2011 to november 2012 along a cross-shore section. The full simulation of water level describes the storm surges generated by typhoons with errors of 0.1 m. With the aim to analyse hydrodynamic mechanisms, we performed a set of mono-forcing simulation that isolate each meteo-marine parameter. Their analysis show that astronomical tide is the dominant forcing (~1 m) followed by the regional ...