Os trajes nobres femininos da corte carioca nas aquarelas de Jean-Baptiste Debret (1817-1827)

Esta tese investiga o vestu?rio nobre feminino na corte do Rio de Janeiro, entre 1817 e 1827, a partir das aquarelas de Jean-Baptiste Debret. Em virtude da grandiosa dimens?o da obra desse artista, foram selecionadas 12 aquarelas acabadas, pertencentes ? Cole??o Castro Maya, nas quais ? poss?vel explorar os detalhes dos trajes. O embasamento te?rico adotado na constru??o argumentativa do texto parte da premissa de que o tecido social pode ser compreendido, dentre outros elementos, a partir do vestu?rio e da moda. Assim, na perspectiva de uma Hist?ria Social do vestu?rio, analisa como a indument?ria portuguesa influenciou na elabora??o do vestu?rio utilizado pelas senhoras das elites locais, o que possibilita compreender de que modo os valores civilizat?rios europeus s?o difundidos e incorporados pela sociedade carioca, a partir da cria??o de uma nova est?tica vestimentar. A escrita da pesquisa inicia com um cap?tulo dedicado ? apresenta??o dos alfaiates, costureiras e modistas que se estabelecem na corte. Para tanto utiliza an?ncios da Gazeta do Rio de Janeiro, considerando que eles revelam importantes aspectos do nascente circuito da moda. Nesse movimento de contextualiza??o, ainda emprega alguns relatos de viajantes que passaram pela cidade. As refer?ncias est?ticas da moda europeia, no per?odo de transi??o do s?culo XVIII para o XIX, s?o exploradas no cap?tulo 2, que aborda as transforma??es ocorridas no vestu?rio feminino ap?s a Revolu??o Francesa, assim como, o desenvolvimento da moda portuguesa nesse contexto, a partir da an?lise de algumas pe?as do Museu Nacional do Traje de Lisboa. Por fim, ? analisado o conjunto de aquarelas debretianas, tomado como principal fonte hist?rica para verificar que elementos da moda lusitana foram preservados e adaptados ao contexto local. Ao problematizar sobre as rela??es estabelecidas entre essas imagens, as sociabilidades e os modos de vestir do per?odo, s?o examinadas as diversas pe?as que comp?em a indument?ria nobre feminina. This thesis investigates the noble feminine clothing from the Rio de Janeiro court, between 1817 and 1827, based on Jean-Baptiste Debret?s watercolors. Due to the great dimension of this artist's work, 12 finished watercolors were selected, belonging to Castro Maya Collection, in which it is possible to explore the details of the costumes. The academic basis embranced in the argumentative construction of the text is based on the premise that the social fabric can be understood, among other elements, from clothing and fashion. Thereby, in the perspective of a Social History of clothing, it analyzes how the Portuguese dress influenced the elaboration of the clothing used by the ladies from local elites, which makes it possible to understand how the values of the European civilization are disseminated and incorporated by the society of Rio de Janeiro, starting from the creation of a new clothing aesthetic. The research writing begins with a chapter dedicated to the presentation of tailors, seamstresses and dressmakers who settle down at the court. Therefore, it uses advertisements from Gazeta do Rio de Janeiro, considering that they reveal important aspects of the new fashion circuit. In this contextualization movement, it still uses some reports from travelers who passed through the city. The aesthetic references of European fashion, in the transition period from the 18th to the 19th century, are explored in Chapter 2, which addresses the transformations that occurred in women's clothing after the French Revolution, as well as the development of Portuguese fashion in this context, based on analysis of some pieces from the Museu Nacional do Traje de Lisboa. Finally, the Debret?s watercolors are analyzed, taken as the main historical source to verify that elements of Lusitanian fashion have been preserved and adapted to the local context. When discussing the relations established between these images, the sociability and the ways of dressing of that time, the various pieces that make up the noble feminine dress are verified. Coordena??o de Aperfei?oamento de Pessoal de N?vel Superior - CAPES